Peripatetic in Paris

Last stop on my itinerary was the beautiful Paris.  This city lives up to all your expectations!  Nothing quite compares to that first thrill as you glimpse the Eiffel Tower for the first time....

We were blessed with a cool change and enjoyed (mostly fine) days in the mid-high 20s.  I had a list of must-see sights and we managed to cover them all!  I even got to see the bikes race round the Champs Elysees and ride the TPG in first class style.  It was a quick visit in more sense than one!

First our host took us to Versailles, King Louis XIV's famous castle in the outskirts of Paris.  We were staying in that direction.  My favourite part was where this picture of Mum and I was taken - the famous Hall of Mirrors.  I had also been reading a book that was largely set in Paris (including several visits to Versailles), so it was easy to imagine it in its heyday.

On Saturday we traveled into Paris on the train.  Mum and I took a trip around town on the Red Bus and saw many of the most famous inner-city sites.  Then met up with Dad at a Little tart cafe near Notre Dame.  We also had a look around inside the cathedral after lunch as the line was a bit shorter.  Then we split up again and Dad and I explored Musee d'Orsay, home to many impressionist paintings.  The one below was my favourite, I'm a big Renoir fan, but I also discovered the Edgar Degas didn't only paint dancers!

On Sunday I trooped into Paris on my own after checking out the Sunday market in St Germain En-laye, where we were staying, with my parents and our host.  It was a long wait for the bikes to arrive, but I made some new friends while waiting and it was well worth it!  You could feel the excitement build up as the cavalcade arrived... we even participated in a few mexican-waves around the circuit while we waited!  The picture below is me in the crowd, followed by a shot I took holding the camera above my head.  I had a better view but camera's don't move like eyes....

Monday I was a little weary, but our admission tickets to the Musee d'Orsay also qualified us to visit the Orangerie gallery, so Mum and I went and checked out the enormous Waterlily canvases by Monet (the gallery was built around them!)  There were other impressionist painters represented there too, many by lesser-know artists.  After that we reunited with Dad (who had checked out the Bastille) and went to explore Monmatre.  Monmatre is famous for Sacre Cour on the hill, the Moulin Rouge and was also where much of Amelie was filmed.  The photo below is me outside "Amelie's cafe" better know as Cafe des Deux Moulains.

Tuesday, out last in Paris, took us to Normandy for a much anticipated visit to Monet's Garden in Giverny.  Mum and Dad had been before, so I had heard about it, and seen it many times in his artworks, but visiting it, and his house that has been preserved as it was, is something else.  Mum took so many photos, below are a couple of my favourites.  One day I hope to return with a special friend who has spent many hours in Adelaide Botanic Garden with me.  I could just imagine her soaking it all in, like I did.  

Sadly, now my peripatetic days are over and I'm packing my case to return home tomorrow.  I has been a very special month with my parents, full of memories I will treasure forever.

Rules for Roaming

Now that I have spent the better part of a week exploring Rome... I thought I'd treat my readers to some witty "rules" to follow on your next visit....

• Wear appropriate shoes

When in Rome... you WILL be walking.  The narrow streets are unevenly paved with cobblestones and scooters, motor bikes and even cars can come careering round corners so keep your eyes open.  Also, Romans think nothing of barging into you - you have been warned!

• Guard your personal space on public transport!

The buses and trains can become very crowded... I won't go into detail here, suffice it to say you'll have a much more comfortable journey if you can nab yourself a seat!

• Buy water only once

You should only need to buy one bottle of water (pay no more than 1E).  Once you've drunk that you can refill it all over town at the plentiful water fountains (choose the ones meant for drinking rather than the decorative ones).  Even on our 40 + days the water from these fountains was refrigerated cold and very refreshing.  Also, drink up, the pavements and surrounding buildings radiate heat day and night in peak season.

• Ensure you know how to say "No"

There are salesmen everywhere trying to get you to join their tours, buy their wares or just get your money.  Learn how to say "no" emphatically.  I usually raised my hand in a backing off gesture as well.  It can get a little bit annoying.

• Buy a multi-trip ticket

We bought a 7 day ticket for 16E which allowed unlimited travel on city buses, trams and the metro.  The buses are the best option.  You have to walk for ages and ages to get to your train (especially at Termini station near where we were staying).  For Melbournites... Termini is a bit like Box Hill... all the buses seem to go there! 

• Pre-book your visit to Villa Borghese

There is a great museum at Villa Borghese on the edge of town (Galleria Borghese).  It has a wonderful history and great collection of paintings and sculptures (especially Bernini, who made a significant mark on Rome you will notice).  However, the queues are long and it you don't book beforehand you are unlikely to get in on the day you visit.  Allow plenty of time, you will probably spent 1.5 - 2 hours in the galleria, but the villa is also situated in lovely formal gardens.

• Shop at the Drugstore

The Drugstore doesn't sell drugs.  Conads is just one chain of "drugstores" that sell groceries.  We saved a lot of money buy purchasing fresh fruit and sandwiches or salads to cover two of our daily meals.  Eating out can become very expensive - and don't bother with much of a tip unless the service is really good as most restaurants bill a cover charge up to 5E.

• Know what you want

Mum and I were determined to nab a few bargains (chiefly shoes and clothes), and we did!  However the sales assistants can be quite pushy, trying to sell you additional items, especially jackets, so keep in mind what you want and be firm (or you'll spend a lot more than you intended!).  This month almost all the stores had Saldi (Sales) and up to 60%.  We also found that most of the items we bought were wholly made in Italy, which in nice.  So do not be surprised when you see me in my new clothes to hear me reply "why I bought it in Roma" when you ask where I got it...!

• Curb your enthusiasm

I was disappointed by a few things, so do not build up your travel experience more than necessary.  I found the Vatican overwhelming and more than a little over-the-top, but it was worthwhile.  The queues to get into the Basillica and especially the Sistine Chapel (it was too hot for me to queue up for that one) can be long and you have to wear sleeves or wrap something over your bare shoulders.  Also they charge 16E for entry to the Colloseum and Palatine Hill now (each) and if you join a tour you usually have to pay your entry in addition to the tour charge.  Again, be prepared for long queues... especially for the Colloseum.

Also, I was a little disappointed with the food (especially the gelato).  In Melbourne we are blessed with high quality Italian fare.  Watch out where you eat too, the prices will be heavily inflated nearest the big sites so travel a block or two away to find a cute, authentic experience.

• When in Rome...

you know how it goes.... Do as the Romans do.  We enjoyed our daily siesta.  It was far too hot to venture around town all day so we generally visited the sites in the morning and shopped in the evening.  This meant we achieved what we wanted and didn't get too grumpy and hot.

Lastly, don't be merely an armchair traveler... save up and have your own adventures! Ciao xo

Ups and downs of traveling

Sometimes everything goes peachy... and other times....

When departing Melbourne Airport I forgot to grab a departure card at check-in, so I dutifully returned and when I got there they asked for my boarding pass.  It was taken away and upon return had been upgraded to business!! Well, you can imagine my excitement... I'd never had this privilege before and it was a 14 hour overnight flight to Doha.  I felt like royalty, but just to ensure I didn't get used to the idea too soon... I was assigned what would have to be the worst seat on my leg to Frankfurt.  No window for my window seat (for views of the Mediterranean and Alps) and no ability to recline my seat - most uncomfortable and I strongly recommend you avoid row 27 on all long-haul journeys!!  One could say a rather bi-polar experience, two extremes of the airborne journey.

Then on Thursday, Mum and I went for our swim in the Rhein.  All you have to do really is float as the strong current pushes you along.  It is very popular with locals during the summer.  All was going swimmingly... that is until I left the water and felt very green around the gills.  I gave my poor mum and her friend a scare as I fainted on the stairs!  This is a bad habit of mine... now I am banned from swimming in Perth and Basel!  It will be paddling in the shallows from now on, sadly.


This coming Wednesday brings Bastille Day and I will be attempting a French Classic for our dinner.  Then on Thursday afternoon we head to Rome.  Hopefully no misadventures to be had there!

Ciao for now, Joce xo

Delightful Dresden Days

What a joy to be met by my dear papa* at Frankfurt airport.  It was HOT!  We had ice-cream while waiting for our train connection to Dresden and then treated to first class in the train.  Our train steward was very friendly and obliging.  We had Weissebier (can you guess what that is?) Then I bombed out for a few hours.  Before I knew it we were racing to change carriage at Leipzig and then a short trip and we pulled into Dresden.  What a picturesque city!  It is rightly called "Florence on the Elbe".  Unfortunately a little Soviet taint still lingers, but it is gradually being replaced by Dresden's former glory.  It was completely flattened in famous bombing raids in February 1945 at the end of the war and much of the rubble remained throughout its days as part of East Germany.  Historically it is the capital of Saxony and Luther's reformation was very strong in the area.  Many of the grand churches (Catholic in appearance) have been Evangelical since the 1400s!
It remained very hot all weekend, but we did manage to see the sights and enjoy ourselves.  Our accommodation was very close to the center of "old town" and we bought ourselves 3 day Regio-cards that enabled free access to all city transport, entry to museums or discounts.  On Saturday we explored the city and attended two superb recitals.  A free organ recital at Kirschekruz (church of the cross), and then a really special concert of Bach pieces by German Brass in the famous Frauenkirsche.  Germany defeated Argentina that afternoon so the streets were filled with German revelers.
On Sunday we visited Zwinger palace/museum in the morning... Augustus the Strong (Elector of Saxony and King of Poland) was mad about porcelain, so there is a massive porcelain collection in part of the palace.  Such beauty!  There is also an armour gallery and old masters gallery that just goes on and on and on!  When we had enough of the pictures we found a little cafe to have some lunch and then I suggested the Grosse Garten (Great Garden).  The Garden is HUGE and we decided to view it on the mini railway.  Dad was in heaven!  He has always loved trains of all sizes.  We had a steam locomotive and he even had a chat with the driver.  The stations were manned by children and they took it very seriously... even the mini railway must leave on time in Germany!
On Sunday evening we decided to venture into Dresden Neustat (new town, but really old) for dinner.  Neustat retains much of the Soviet look and is not touristy at all, but we found the most wonderful Thai (and sushi) restaurant called Old Siam.  Very authentic delicious food and inexpensive and generous portions.  I ordered Green curry and Dad had chili prawns.  Yum-yum!
Monday morning found us in nearby Meissen, famous for its porcelain... Dad found he had a taste for it after Zwinger...  The locals (with Augustus' support) discovered a recipe for porcelain in the 18th century and they have been producing exquisite porcelain since then (and VERY expensive/exclusive).  We had a tour of the presentation factory, they still produce it exactly the same as they always have, every part of the process is done by hand (or foot for the potter's wheel).  Monday afternoon we rushed around town trying to find my favourite post card (Why didn't I buy it when I first saw it?!) before arriving at the station to find that our train was 40 minutes late!  We eventually arrived in Hanau 2 hours late!  At least Dad will get a 50% refund, and our friends picked us up there and took us to their home - we were far too late to make our connection.It seems that Jocelyn has brought Melbourne's timetable with her... all the trains run late when she's around!
Now I'm "home" in Schopfheim and it is so lovely to see my Mum.  We will swim in the Rhein this afternoon... more to come... xo 
The picture above is a statue of Martin Luther in front of Frauenkirche.  *Papa is German for Daddy.